"World Street" in Fredericksburg's Celebrate Virginia set to open in 2008

Everytime R. and I visit Central Park in Fredericksburg, I always manage to subconsciously utter "yuck! I could never live here!!" - in fact, it's such a habit of mine it's become our little inside joke. I can only imagine that there will be a Sephora, or a MAC store, somewhere in this mess. I know that NYX is a brand started (and still owned?) by a Korean-American woman, and it happens to show up in a lot of beauty supply stores, so perhaps something good can come of this.

Mignatti Envisions a Brave New 'World'

By Evan Clark, Women's Wear Daily

FREDERICKSBURG, Va. — After a helicopter tour of the future home of WorldStreet, a retail concept that will be part mall, part bow to the forces of globalization, a group of Venezuelan investors emptied their water bottles so they could take dirt home from the construction site.

"How great is that? That's an investment in the American dream," said David Mignatti, who is spearheading the project as president of the WorldStreet Development Division of Silver Cos., the master developer.

Now just a patch of barren ground within the confines of Celebrate Virginia, a massive retail complex created by Silver Cos., WorldStreet is set to open in 2008 and aims to be a new story line in the tale of globalization, one that will diminish the roles of major retailers and instead offer an outlet to relatively nameless manufacturers.

Celebrate Virginia spans 2,400 acres along Interstate 95 between Washington and Richmond. Billed as "North America's Largest Retail Resort," it will be home to historic attractions such as the National Slavery Museum (opening next year) and Central Park, a 2.4 million-square-foot mixed-use retail and entertainment complex featuring restaurants and stores ranging from Wal-Mart to Talbot's, an indoor ice skating rink, a convention center and an indoor water park.
"WorldStreet represents an opportunity to take links out of the supply chain... The industry is changing worldwide, manufacturers are looking for future solutions, and one of the solutions is going direct to the consumer."
David Mignatti, WorldStreet Development Division of Silver Cos.
The $200 million-plus WorldStreet project will be a quarter of a mile long, house 250 to 300 stores, six eateries and a dozen or more cafes over 750,000 square feet. The roster is still being worked out, but Mignatti expects about half the stores at WorldStreet to be operated by foreign companies, some of which produce goods for well-known retailers but haven't had their own storefront in the U.S.

Among those confirmed to be taking space at WorldStreet are Far East Imports, based in Alexandria, Va., which specializes in hand-painted vases from China and the Far East, accessories company Mediterranean Treasures and a jewelry firm from Jaipur, India.

"WorldStreet represents an opportunity to take links out of the supply chain," said Mignatti, who recounted the story about the Venezuelans during a recent tour of the site.

"Victoria's Secret wouldn't be a chain store that would be in WorldStreet, but perhaps one of the manufacturers and exporters that sell lingerie to Victoria's Secret would establish their own brand at WorldStreet," said Mignatti. "The industry is changing worldwide, manufacturers are looking for future solutions, and one of the solutions is going direct to the consumer."

Given the dramatic growth among discounters, continued expansion of single-brand specialty stores and consolidation among department stores, at least some overseas manufacturers need a new outlet.

"It's not easy these days for manufacturers to get ahead," said retail consultant Walter Loeb, who was not familiar with WorldStreet but said the project could be an opportunity for some firms. "Those manufacturers who are anchored to Federated or somebody are not likely to go that route because they're afraid of losing that contact, that customer. If you're not one of the strong first-line resources used by the retailers...you're trying to find other ways to get contact with the customer, support the customer and then the growth through that demand."

To find prospective firms, WorldStreet is reaching out around the world.

Mignatti recently spent two weeks promoting the project in China and has 27 private companies from that country scheduled to visit the site by mid-February. Slots have already been sold to firms from China, India, Turkey, Venezuela and Ecuador, and apparel is expected to make up about 30 percent to 35 percent of the project.

In a departure from the normal mall format, companies will own their stores under a commercial condominium arrangement, and 75 percent of the purchase can be financed by Silver Cos.

The idea is to bring in new players with goods that have the ability to create a brand identity and then help them expand through print, Web, TV and radio ads and business support services from access to logistic services to store design advice and merchant banking.

"We're selling opportunity. This isn't just another real estate development project," Mignatti said. "We're inviting new participants."

In addition to foreign firms, World­Street is courting U.S. brands that don't have the ubiquity of well-developed national names and boutique owners looking to expand. A branded presence to draw consumers might be key to the endeavor.

"WorldStreet's going to need anchors of brands to attract people," said Andrew Jassin, managing director of the Jassin-O'Rourke Group, a fashion consultancy. "Without that, I think it's a challenge in today's climate."

Mignatti said stores at WorldStreet will also act as wholesale showrooms, where brands can establish a distribution beachhead in the U.S. and haggle with store buyers. Brands can also buy space at the center's warehouse distribution facilities to service wholesale clients.

This mixture of wholesale and retail, as well as the ability of the brands to own their stores, is in line with the way business is conducted outside the U.S., said Larry Silver, chief executive officer of Silver Cos., who has led the company since 1972.

In addition to bringing a bit of a foreign operating ethos to the U.S., the center is intended to deliver an international feel to Virginia.

"We're bringing an opportunity to experience a new lifestyle to the American public that, unless they got to travel to the bazaars of the world, they would never get to experience," said Silver.

WorldStreet, as he tells it, will be awash in the smells of exotic cuisines and the sounds of foreign languages. "The owners and merchants themselves will be working in these facilities," said Silver.

The project also helps Silver get around a problem as a retail developer.

"Our industry is starving for new anchors," he said, noting there are only so many Targets and Wal-Marts and Lowe's to build around.

A Wal-Mart superstore weighs in at about 250,000 square feet, while WorldStreets — there are plans to develop about a dozen more near major U.S. cities — could top 1 million square feet. "That is a tremendous anchor," said Silver. "We become the center of a gigantic draw, a phenomenal experience."

The center, like Celebrate Virginia, is designed to create a critical mass of shopping to draw people from farther away and to get them to spend more. WorldStreet will connect with other attractions at Celebrate Virginia — the entertainment district, the convention center and hotels — by buses and rubber-tire trolleys. These will convey shoppers along some of Celebrate Virginia's more than seven miles of internal six-lane parkways, some of which now lead through empty fields being prepared for construction.

Already there is a seemingly endless collection of stores. There is one point where shoppers could see at least four stores offering $5,000 flat-screen TVs and drive no more than 30 seconds between them, amounting to what Mignatti said is an important component of the project: the "comparative shopping experience."

Still, the striving for critical mass that is a hallmark of the project begs the question: How much retail can the market bare?

For Mignatti, the field is wide open.

"America's great pastime is consumerism — more than sports, more than arts, more than culture," he said. "We are a country of consumers and shoppers. These projects respond to the demands."

MAC Danse launches on maccosmetics.com

MAC launches yet another new collection, with a very ethereal feel. It's turning its back on the vampy, rich shades of late summer and fall and looking at an icy, super-femme winter/spring. I like the ballet and dance inspired names, but I think the shades are just kind of blah. Products that are shimmery usually have little color payoff and really make the skin look dull.

If you love muted colors and lots of shimmer, this collection is for you. It's launching today on the website (due to the holiday, it's a day late - usually MAC collections launch on Tuesdays online and Thursdays instore, so go check them out at Stony Point Fashion Park MAC store.

Eyeshadows:
Rondelle - Light silver with white pearl (frost, LE)
Rite of Spring - Antiqued white with pink pearl (VP, LE)
Swan Lake - Blue grey with silver pearl (frost, LE)
French Grey - Taupe with silver pearl (satin, LE)
Scene 1 - Bubble gum pink with silver sparkle (velvet, LE)
Jete - Sandy coral (VP, LE)

Lipstick:
Curtsy - Rich pink coral with gold pearl (Lustre, LE)
Danse - Rose pink with silver pearl (Frost, LE)
Classical - Creamy pinky coral with gold pearl (Lustre, LE)
Russe - Cool neutral with white pearl (Lustre, LE)

Lipglass:
Pas-de-deux - Soft aluminum silver with pink pearl (LE)
En Pointe - Pastel pink with white pearl (LE)
Standing Ovation - Bright pink with white pearl (LE)
Corps-de-ballet - Soft plum with silver pearl (LE)

Pigment:
Aire-de-blu - Sky blue with silver sparkle (LE)
Pastorale - Khaki green with gold pearl (LE)

Mineralize Skinfinish:
Lightscapade - soft yellow, pastel pink, muted orange, and soft blue veined together (LE)
Glissade - Golden peach with muted metallic plum veining (LE)

Nail Polish:
Sacred White - Metallic Cream with white pearl (LE)

Modern Atelier in the River City Gift Guide!

A big thanks to Katherine from Richmond.com for including my perfumes in her "River City Gift Guide" - I had to hear about it third-hand via an e-mail with a link to an etsy forum post linking to the story! There was also a short mention of yours truly and this humble blog in Richmond Magazine's last issue, where I recommended some secret beauty favorites of mine. I did the interview so long ago, I forgot that it would ever be coming out!

Richmond.com Wednesday December 13, 2006

Richmonders, as a whole, tend to be a proud and appreciative bunch.

No matter how much controversy stirs regarding baseball stadiums, performing arts centers and school systems, River City residents puff up with pride when discussing the region's many attractions, whether it's the peaceful beauty of Hollywood Cemetery, the historical regality of Monument Boulevard or the plethora of tasty dining options.

Indeed, there is a lot to be proud of in the Commonwealth's capitol – and there is no better time to celebrate the city than during the holidays when the lights are aglitter, the weather refreshingly brisk and the people projecting seasonal spirit.

This year, bestow those particularly proud Richmonders on your list with a gift that represents the town they adore. Read on for a few Richmond.com suggestions on finding that perfectly "Richmond" present…

Give the essence of Richmond through Modern Atelier's Richmond-themed fragrances, handcrafted by Richmonder Amy George. The scents, which include ones inspired by Libby Hill, Belle Isle and the Fan, come packaged in simple one-ounce bottles ($12.50) or stylish reed diffusers ($15), which spread Richmond-esque aromas throughout one's home. If you're unsure which fragrance would befit your recipient, go for the "4 for $40" special; with four choices to choose from, he or she is bound to like a couple! Modern Atelier fragrances are currently available at Ava Lu in Carytown (3009 W. Cary St.) or through Amy's website at modernatelier.etsy.com.

How cool is that?! :)

Wrinkle creams ineffective?

From The Daily Telegraph - an interesting article supporting the anecdotal evidence I've heard saying things like Creme de la Mer or La Prairie just didn't provide the amazing results promised. My mom swears by Olay Regenerist, and at $19, it's an affordable way to get minimal results. Save up those $$ and go for laser resurfacing or microdermabrasion instead!

SPENDING a fortune on anti-wrinkle creams? Don't bother, says a study released today.
Luxury products didn't work any better than cheap brands, according to the study by Consumer Reports magazine, which ranked Olay Regenerist, priced at about $US19 ($24), as the most effective in reducing wrinkles.

But none of these products made a significant difference in the skin's appearance.

Researchers found that after 12 weeks the top-rated products smoothed out some fine lines and wrinkles, but even the best performers reduced the average depth of wrinkles by less than 10 per cent, a change barely visible to the naked eye.

"The tests revealed that, on average, these products made little difference in the skin's appearance and there's no correlation between price and effectiveness," a spokeswoman for the magazine said.

Americans spend more than $US1 billion a year on anti-wrinkle creams.

Consumer Reports, published by non-profit consumer research group Consumer Union, chose a sample of top-selling mass market lines for its study. The products were purchased in retail stores for between $US19 and $US355.

Each cream was tested by 17 to 23 women, aged between 30 and 70.

The women were recruited and evaluated by a European laboratory specialising in cosmetic testing.

The women used a test product on one side of their face and the lab's standard moisturiser on the other side for comparison. A high-tech optical device was used to detect changes in wrinkle depth and skin roughness.

Results varied among the women, the study said.

Tina Alster, a dermatologic laser surgeon from Georgetown University Medical Centre in Washington, DC, and a member of the American Academy of Dermatologists, said it was overly simplistic to conclude from such a limited study that these products did not work.

"People would love to believe that cheap products are the same as the more expensive ones, and I may pooh-pooh someone paying $US500 for a cream, but I do see the value of some of the luxury brands which are science-based," she said.

"But it is a cautionary tale that people should be looking at the ingredients rather than just at the packaging."

Despite the study's findings, some women said they would continue to use anti-wrinkle cream.

"I've never really believed these creams would stop wrinkles, but they make me feel and smell good," said Amira Thoron, a 36-year-old New York teacher.

Sephora's World Grows: Home Shopping Network Latest Channel for Chain

I've heard rumors about all this lately, and now, the deets: Sephora is launching on HSN. Similar to its campaign to open mini-boutiques inside JC Penney stores, there will be a very edited selection of Sephora's merchandise from 9 core brands (you know, Stila, Urban Decay, LORAC, etc...) and the Sephora Collection. I'm all for it - it will bring high-quality beauty goods to the masses. I know when I was growing up in the midwest, it was either Maybelline or nothing. I'll be interested to see how this turns out for them, financially.

By Pete Born, Womens Wear Daily
Sephora's drive to extend its reach is being beamed across the television airwaves with the debut today of a series of one-hour shows on Home Shopping Network.

The French-based beauty retail chain is broadcasting four shows today — at 1 a.m., 9 a.m., 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. — from its Fifth Avenue store near 48th Street in New York. A trio of personalities — Julie Redfern, the Sephora beauty editor, and Dianna Perkovic and Collen Lopez from HSN — will pitch Sephora's top picks for holiday gifts and beauty tips to navigate a season of partying. The initial program will focus on bestsellers from nine core brands and its own label.

"Our hosts are there to editorialize," said Betsy Olum, senior vice president of marketing at Sephora. "They are not there to hawk products; they are there to describe trends and show new product."

She described the broadcasts as the preview shows, with a regular schedule starting in February and plans calling for five hours of programming per month from a permanent set that will be built in HSN's headquarters in St. Petersburg, Fla. It will be complete with prominent Sephora signage and fixtures designed to create an in-store ambience.

"We believe there is a huge market out there," Olum said, "with more demand than we can satisfy by building 30 or 40 new stores a year."

While Sephora has steamed ahead with store openings, the retailer also has relentlessly pursued what Sephora president David Suliteanu calls "brand enhancement opportunities." First, the company, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, struck up a partnership in March with Klinger Advanced Aesthetics to tap into the burgeoning consumer demand for spa treatments. Then in late September, J.C. Penney Co. unveiled new and renovated stores containing sizable Sephora store-within-store boutiques. "Penney's gave us the opportunity to reach out to a new clientele who may not have previously shopped us before," Olum said, adding the reduced and edited assortment in the Penney's boutiques "allows them to shop for beauty in a different way. The assortment is smaller and more focused and isn't overwhelming."

And there seemed to be no objections from Penney's to Sephora's latest move. "Anything that Sephora does to raise brand awareness is a benefit to J.C. Penney," said Darcie Brossart, vice president of corporate communications.

The appeal of HSN has become apparent to Sephora. "Whenever any of our brands would go on TV there would be a lift in our store business," Olum said. The appeal of the shopping channel is evident from the statistics Olum ticked off: HSN reaches 89 million households, 75 percent of customers are female, the average age is 25 to 54, and the average household income is $61,000 a year.

Olum underscored the potential and discussed why Sephora decided on HSN, rather than QVC, and alluded to the apparent desire to move the network's programming forward by Mindy Grossman, chief executive officer of the parent IAC/Interactive Corp., headed by Barry Diller.

"First and foremost, HSN did not have a broad beauty offering, so there was an amazing and immediate opportunity for us," Olum stated. "Additionally, with their great demographics and Mindy Grossman at the helm, the partnership promises to be even more exciting."

Today's Sephora preview will feature bestsellers from nine of the retailer's core brands, including Make Up For Ever, Cargo, Dior, The Balm, T3 hair dryers, Oscar Blandi, Urban Decay, Lip Fusion and the Sephora brand of bath and body care and accessories and implements. These brands also are expected to return in the February lineup, which currently is being put together by Nicole Frusci, director of brand marketing for Sephora. Spokesmen, experts and in-house makeup artists also will make appearances on the shows; for instance, Oscar Blandi was scheduled to appear in the 9 a.m. segment.

Michael Henry, vice president of merchandising for beauty at HSN, noted that Ken Pavés appeared on a show in October selling hair extensions. The show rang up four times the expected sales and the customer age was seven years younger than the average, he said.

Scott Sanborn, senior vice president of marketing, said the emphasis in the Sephora-HSN shows will be "on new discoveries in products and new ideas on how to use products." For instance, Dior is featuring a new mascara and Lip Fusion has a holiday set. Olum said that as in the case of Penney's, Sephora is offering its best picks of its core vendors, not slanting its assortment for TV.

HSN now has core beauty business, with its major brands consisting of Susan Lucci, Lauren Hutton and Marilyn Miglin.

Henry said he sees opportunity to build up the color cosmetics and hair categories. He said skin care now does about 50 percent of the portfolio, and he would like it to represent only 40 percent. Conversely, makeup now claims 25 percent, and Henry would like it to be 35 percent.

Sanborn said the hookup with Sephora was attractive because the specialty chain's image as "the beauty authority" provides a platform of credibility for the network. But HSN apparently has built up its own following in beauty. Sanborn noted the channel has had no problem selling beauty serums priced over $100 apiece. White noted the market perceptions have changed dramatically since the Eighties, when home television shopping was first introduced. The mass-class divide has completely blurred and so have the boundaries between price points.

The HSN executives also expect the Sephora shows to have a ripple effect. Two of the Sephora brands, Lip Fusion and Go Smile, have been scheduled for their own shows in January. The promotional theme running through that month will be "the new you." The HSN approach is highly editorial with tightly edited offerings and live demonstrations that can be very persuasive. Sanborn noted, "What works on TV is being able to show dramatic results, and that can really drive sales."

Henry added, "We are curating the assortment" and picking up marketing materials from the Sephora Web site. With the explosion in lifestyle retailing, the HSN-Sephora pitch will be: "'Here are the five things you need to buy,' and that is how we get into the homes." He added, "We really are presenting the product to the customer in more of a problem-solving way than as marketing."

News is also a factor. Sanborn pointed out that Clever Carriage Co. sold out of 11 styles of handbags by showing different looks. It took 40 minutes, well short of the hour that was allotted.

Sephora's Olum sees the opportunity of entering so many households. "This is a destination for them. They flip on the TV and are ready to shop."

White also sees a chance to acquaint his customer with the world of Sephora. "Probably what will happen is that there will be a customer who will be educated about Sephora."

A Dozen Tips for More Beautiful Nails

From WebMD - this article has some good advice but also fails to clear up some very persistent myths about nails and nail enhancements. My Thoughts:

#1 -YES. The only time those nippers should EVER come out is if there is a snag of cuticle that is 'waving up in the air at you'. But Solar Oil/cuticle oil and a good hand cream should keep your cuticles intact. If you must, push them back gently with an orangewood stick after moisturizing, and then examine the pterygium that remains on the nail plate. This leftover skin sticks to the nail as it grows forward from the base, and interferes with polish application and enhancements. THIS is what the cuticle removing lotions are really getting at, NOT the actual living flesh of the eponychium.

#2 MISGUIDED. Formaldehyde has been shown to help strengthen natural nails by improving the links between proteins in nails, but only in certain strengths. Between .5 and 5 percent, the formaldehyde is theraputic, but lower than this concentration and there is little effect, and above this you run the risk of brittle, not flexible nails. Some people are also sensitive to formaldehyde, so this would be good advice in their case. Creative Nail Design now has 'Toughen Up' which contains a tiny amount of formaldehyde and a new chemical, DMU (dimethlylol urea) which is less sensitizing than formaldehyde, as well as a more appropriate strengthener for the nail. Nailtek also makes several products that I have found to be very effective in strengthening and improving the nail without making them brittle.

#3 - YES. Again, the Solar Oil or other cuticle oil is just what you need. Use it daily, every time you wash your hands if you can remember and have the opportunity.

#4. YES. I've been saying for years that biotin helps nails, and I'm glad these Germans can prove it. CVS sells 3000 mcg supplements (which, I believe, works out to 3 mg) that fit the theraputic level the study found to be effective. Even a 3mg dose is pretty tiny, so it's not like you have to get used to taking horse pills. Taking vitamins every day is also a good way to ensure your hair, skin, and nails look their best.

#5 WRONG...professional 'manicures' should not involve damage to the nail or skin around it at all. That would be an unprofessional manicure. Licensed nail technicians learn about how to treat the natural nail, as well as proper sanitation procedures. Ask to see the technician's license (although this is not a fail-safe as licenses can be doctored or totally fake), sanitation procedures, and original bottles. Discount nail shops (you know the type) are known to break a lot of rules. So if in doubt, walk out! In addition, electric files (or 'drills' should NEVER be used on the natural nail, only on acrylic/gel/fiber/resin enhancements. Chemistry has evolved to the point that roughing up the natural nail bed to make enhancements stick isn't needed. The technician may need to dehydrate the nail using a solvent or GENTLY remove the shine from your natural nail using a light grit file. Nail 'drills' are the #1 cause of most of the problems people experience from nail procedures. The discount shops use them because they are faster than using a manual file. This is not to say that all electric files are bad, but an untrained user can inflict a lot of damage in a very short time.

#6 - SOMEWHAT TRUE. Non-acetone removers aren't as effective at cleaning the nail, so you may actually need to use more! The truth in this is that you should use them only as often as you need to. So changing your polish everyday is really the culprit. Of course, you can minimize the effects by, again, moisturizing hands and cuticles. And non-acetone removers are useless at soaking off old enhancements, which leaves you the alternative of prying them off - again, a practice that 'discount' nail shops are known for. The enhancements are DESIGNED to stick to your nail. Prying them off exerts even more force that can quite possibly TAKE YOUR NATURAL NAIL WITH IT. Your fingernails are there for a reason, and enhancements shouldn't make things worse. So by all means, if you want to remove acrylic enhancements, soak them off with acetone, even if it takes half an hour or more. If it takes longer than that, chances are you got majorly screwed with enhancements containing MMA, and that's bad news and grounds for going to the health department to report the salon/shop that gave them to you. More about that some other time, though.


#7 YES! Again, use the highest # grit that is effective - for most people this can be as high as 180, 240, or even 400 grit (did you know nail files use the same grit # system as sandpaper?). I love my glass nail file, which has a very high grit and thus, makes the edges of my nails smooth as glass. Plus, it's reusable and sanitizable!

#8 YES.

#9 YES, but really, this shouldn't be a huge problem unless you're shampooing with lye or something.

#10 WRONG - nail tips are extensions. This person doesn't really know what they're saying. The problem is that lifting or micro-cracks in the enhancement can give water and bacteria a place to hide. So keep an eye out for green spots in nails, and if you see one, soak off or remove the enhancement and clean the nail, letting it dry for at least a day before re-applying. Also, the shorter the extension, the less force exerted between it and the natural nail, and thus the less chance for lifting/damage.

#11 YES. Wearing tight shoes is bad for more than just your toes, though! Give yourself a pedicure every now and then, for pete's sake!

#12 YES. Just as the eyes are the window to the soul, the nails are the window into the body's overall condition. If your nails suddenly change, definitely get a physical and tell your doctor. Nails do deteriorate with age, but this is mainly seen in 'ridges', which are harmless, although ridges can indicate illness. So keep a good eye on them and keep care of them. And for heaven's sake don't use them as tools. Fortunately we have these great things like hammers, screwdrivers, and knives now.

A Dozen Tips for More Beautiful Nails

Long, strong, healthy nails are possible -- if you don't fall prey to myths and old wives tales! Three experts tell you what you need to know.
By Colette Bouchez
WebMD Feature Reviewed By Louise Chang, MD

Like a great new haircut or a terrific skin care regimen, healthy, well-manicured nails are an integral part of a neat, pulled-together appearance – one that can work as an asset in both the social and the business world.

Unfortunately, experts say both men and women fall prey to myths and old wives' tales about how to care for nails. Another pitfall: many of us rely on the guidance of salons, some of which may not be doling out the best advice -- or treatments.

To help set the record straight -- and get you on the road to beautiful nails -- three top dermatologists offer these 12 tips for achieving healthy, well groomed, elegant nails.

1. Don't cut or manipulate cuticles. Whether you have your nails professionally groomed or do them yourself, the No. 1 recommendation is leave your cuticles alone, says Dana Stern, MD, a dermatologist at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City.

"The cuticle is the natural barrier to fungus and bacteria -- and once you breach that, protection is lost," she says. This will not only make cuticles look worse -- red, swollen, and ragged -- but may also land you a nasty infection that harms the nail bed and leads to permanent nail damage. And while cutting cuticles holds the most potential for harm, pushing them back can cause problems as well.

Nail Hardeners

Nail Hardeners

2. Use nail hardeners sparingly -- or not at all. "The take-home message here is that a lot of them do more damage than good," says Stern. She reminds us that these products are not studied clinically, so most claims are not backed up by science. Unless nails are exceptionally weak and fragile, she says, most people don't benefit from a nail hardener.

Healthy nails are flexible nails, she says, so to keep yours from breaking, avoid anything that makes them more brittle.

3. Moisturize the nail bed and the cuticle. While there is little in the way of medical data showing that moisturizing the nail bed will help nails grow, it can make cuticles look better and help protect nails from breaking due to a lack of moisture. "If your nails are prone to breakage, it could mean they need moisture -- and putting oil around the cuticle helps moisturize the entire nail, which will reduce the incidence of chipping, cracking, and splitting," says Margaret Ravits, MD, a dermatologist at Hackensack University Medical Center in New Jersey.

4. Take biotin supplements. In several studies, researchers found that supplements of biotin (a member of the vitamin B family) increased nail thickness and prevented splitting and breaking. In a respected German study that evaluated 45 people with severe nail problems, 2.5 milligrams of biotin daily for several months benefited everyone -- with 91% of the 45 citing significant improvement. NYU dermatologist Sumayah Jamal, MD, says to get the effect, it's vital that you take the prescription strength, therapeutic level of 2.5 milligrams daily.

Some nail products also contain silicon and the supplement MSM, two other nutrients associated with nail health.

The one supplement that won't work: Gelatin. Experts say eating or soaking in it won't do a thing to increase nail strength -- and a liquid soak may actually waterlog and eventually weaken nails. Stern adds there is little scientific evidence that supplements or nail products containing calcium, yeast, or fluoride have any significant impact on nail health either.

Limit Manicures

Limit Manicures

5. Limit professional manicures. While it's hard to beat the pampering luxury of a pedicure or manicure, a study just completed by Stern and colleagues at Mt. Sinai showed those who indulged regularly were the most likely to suffer from dry, brittle nails. The doctors theorize that exposure to more chemicals and harsher ingredients may be one reason. Jamal adds that women who get manicures frequently suffer from chronic nail bed infections, evidenced by puffy, reddened areas around the base of the nail. "When you look at your finger sideways the area around your nail bed should be flat. If it's puffy, that's evidence of a chronic infection," says Jamal.

One way to reduce problems, say the experts, is to take your own tools to the manicure. This, says Jamal, will definitely cut down on the risk of infections and help ensure a healthier experience.

6. Avoid acetone-based polish removers. "The one product that all dermatologists agree you should avoid if you have brittle nails is acetone nail polish remover. It has been documented time and again that it strips the nails, causing them to become brittle -- which is something we found in our study as well," says Stern.

7. Avoid rough emery boards. Those old-fashioned orange emery boards are too harsh for nails, causing small fissures and cracks that lead to breakage and tears, says Ravits. Instead, she says, file nails with a smooth, fine file and don't saw back and forth. Instead, Ravits says, file in one direction only, and do it slowly and evenly to reduce risk of breakage.

Don't Overwash

Don't Overwash

8. Don't overdo hand washing and limit contact with cleaning chemicals. As healthy as it can be to wash your hands frequently, overdo it and you'll wreak havoc with your nails, says Stern. If you are in a profession where frequent hand washing is mandatory, she advises to use moisturizer as often as possible and rub a little extra around the cuticles several times a day.

When doing housework or laundry, Jamal says, minimize contact with harsh chemicals, including dishwashing liquid, by wearing rubber gloves whenever possible.

9. Change shampoos. While most women know when a shampoo doesn't agree with their hair, many don't realize it may not agree with their nails -- even if their hair looks great. This, say experts, is particularly true of detergent shampoos, or those for oily hair, which are designed to strip lipids and other natural oils from the scalp. "If your nails are very dry and you are using any soap product that strips the oils, there is the potential to dry the nails," says Stern.

If you can't change shampoos, be sure to moisturize your nails right after washing your hair.

10. Choose nail tips over full extensions. All our experts told WebMD that, in general, nail extensions are bad news for nails, frequently leading to fungal or even bacterial infections -- and, says Stern, sometimes to permanent damage. If you must wear nail extensions, she says, opt for just tips. While they can still cause problems, the potential for damage is less since the surface area covered is smaller.

Important warning: The use of a liquid acrylic nail compound known as MMA (methyl methacrylate) has been banned in many states and has been the subject of an FDA hazard warning, due mostly to high allergic sensitivity and serious nail damage. However, because it is an inexpensive ingredient, there are reports some salons are still using it, sometimes in the form of black market products. How can you tell for sure? According to the American Academy of Dermatology, if your nail products have a strong, noxious odor; if nail enhancements are difficult to file; or they don't soak off easily, they could contain MMA. Report any suspicions to your state health board.

Toenails, Too!

Toenails, Too!

11. Remember toenails count, too! Everything that applies to your fingernails applies to your toenails, which experts say may be even more prone to problems due to careless pedicures. "Because feet are more often inside shoes -- a dark, moist environment -- fungus can grow more easily," says Ravits. If you get regular pedicures, experts say take your own instruments and never let the tech dig under the nail or around the cuticle. Moreover, Ravits says cutting toenails at an angle -- instead of straight across -- increases the risk of ingrown toenails, which can be painful and sometimes develop into an infection.

12. Watch your nails for signs of health problems. Most of the time, nail problems can be traced to environmental assaults -- exposure to harsh cleaning chemicals, use of drying nail products, or just general physical abuse, such as typing or excessive use of fingertips.

That said, the American Academy of Dermatology advises that the condition of your nails can sometimes reflect a problem in your overall health. Here's what they say to look out for:

* White nails -- liver condition
* Half pink/half white nails -- kidney diseasekidney disease
* Yellowing and thickening of the nail, slowed growth rate -- lung disease
* Pale nail beds -- anemiaanemia
* Yellow-tinged nails with a slight blush at the base -- diabetesdiabetes

In 2005, a group of doctors in Ireland found that the earliest signs of the bone-thinning disease osteoporosisosteoporosis might be detected in the nails. In a study conducted at the University of Limerick, researchers discovered something called disulphide bond -- present in both nails and bones -- was lower in people with osteoporosis.

Of course, if you suspect health problems, discuss any findings or concerns with your doctor.

Tutorial: French Manicure

I found this interesting video...as the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. Looks like the manicurist is using Seche Vite basecoat, Essie Mademoiselle and Marshmallow, and Creative Solar Oil for her cuticles. The saran wrap trick is interesting...next time my nails are bare I'll have to try it!

Mint Mojito Pedicure

Here's a fun, do-it-yourself project for a chilly winter afternoon. Your feet need all the love you can give them, especially in the winter when they rarely see the light of day and get ignored inside boots and thick socks. I like to finish my pedicures with a thick body butter or foot cream, and rub Creative Nail Design's Solar Oil into the toenails, then put on cotton socks to moisturize all night long. The following evening, cleanse the nails with acetone or alcohol to remove the natural oils and polish in a fun, bright color to remind you that summer IS coming back.

Foot Soak Recipe:

* ½ cup sea salt
* 3 slices of lime
* 5 to 10 mint leaves
* 5 drops of essential lime oil

Combine all these and add to a basin filled with warm water.

Scrub Recipe

* 3 limes
* 2 tablespoons of white sugar
* 1 tablespoon of sweet almond oil
* 15 fresh mint leaves (chopped)
* 5 drops of lime essential oil

Cut the limes into small pieces and pulse these pieces into a thick pulp in a food processor. Mix this lime and the remaining ingredients in a small bowl.

Soak your feet in the homemade soak for 5 minutes. Then apply the homemade foot scrub with your hands using circular movements around the foot, ankles and calf. Remove the scrub with a warm, damp towel and then apply a mint moisturizer all over your feet. If you need more exfoliation, use a pumice or foot file after soaking but before the sugar scrub.

MAC sale? 15% off

Could it be true? I heard rumors that MAC store employees were giving out this card, good for 15 percent off at any MAC *freestanding* store. That means, theoretically, if you go to Stony Point and run through the MAC store, you should be able to find one. I personally think this is unheard of, but it has been verified by MakeupAlley members when they called their local freestanding stores. I wonder if the Sephora, et al Friends and Family events have cut into their bizness? Of course, it could also be an effect of the MAC Boycott.... I'd again like to state for the record that I do feel Kevin James Bennett and associates have a very valid point, and that I've also noticed a drop in quality over the years, but I don't know much about the professional shenanigans MAC is accused of. So, take it all with a grain of salt!

Precision Polishing

One of my favorite new websites, the Salon Geek, has some amazing tutorials on all kinds of beauty processes. Most of them are geared towards the professional manicurist or aesthetician) but the "Precision Polishing" tutorial was just too great to pass up. Here's page one, but you'll have to go to the website to read it all!

Most of we girls take it for granted that we know how to polish nails … after all, we have been doing it since we were about 12 years old, right?

Why is it then that you can tell a professional polish job a mile away from the home done DIY variety? What makes the professional precision polish different?

1. For one, its glossy and shiny

2. It is much longer lasting

3. There are no brush marks, no streaks and no snags.

4. The perimeter lines are perfect and there is no polish on the skin

All the attributes of a professional precision polish are achieved by using certain techniques that the average woman really does not know about.

Let’s start at the beginning by using a top quality enamel that has a beautiful brush (very important), excellent coverage, never goes thick in the bottle and that dries quickly and is a professional brand of the highest quality and not one that your clients can buy in the high street; these are things a professional should be demanding from the polish line she uses.

There are several very good professional brands. I choose to work with Colours from Creative Nail Design, because they do everything I demand of them as a qualified specialist. I also find the shape of the Creative bottle very easy to hold in the palm of my hand, but first things first.

It is always necessary to loosen up the polish by rolling the bottle between the palms of your hands. Is this just an affectation? Can’t I just shake it up, you ask? If you shake up a bottle of polish, it will be full of thousands of bubbles that can come to the top and create little craters in the surface of your polish later … not the look your client desires, I think. So ‘roll’ the bottle of your chosen colour in the palms of your hands the professional way.

Believe it or not, most amateurs don’t even load the brush or remove it from the bottle correctly. This results in: tops that won’t come off the bottle unless you run them under boiling water to loosen them and sticky gunked-up caps. No one has time in the salon to deal with these problems so it is best to develop the correct methods in the first place and to avoid them.

I work from left to right starting with the little finger and working right accross the two hands, ending with the other little finger.

Take the little finger of the client’s right hand and hold it with the thumb, index and middle finger of your non-dominant hand (just as you would when applying product … see Brush Control Part 1). Hold the bottle in the palm of your hand and keep it secure using your ring and pinky finger.

Charity Buzz - do good and score some amazing experiences!

I found this link on the Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) website. They're hosting a benefit auction with some awesome 'prizes' like a pro lesson and makeover from celebrity makeup artists. How cool would it be to have THE Paula Dorf teach you how to paint your face? Or score tickets to the Country Music Awards and a guitar from Shania Twain? And, it all goes to benefit a very worthy cause - helping working women with cancer feel better and get better.

Gwen Stefani - a L.A.M.B. of a fragrance?!

I can't wait to smell this one - The Hollaback Girl is both glam and eccentric, fashionwise. This makes for a good mix and hopefully this scent will be more interesting than most other celeb fragrances like Shania Twain or Paris Hilton. I give 5:1 odds that this fragrance somehow references Harajuku girls. But just calling it L.A.M.B the fragrance would be fine with me. (source: WWD News)

NEW YORK — Coty Inc. left no doubt Wednesday about its newest celebrity fragrance diva: Gwen Stefani has signed a global licensing deal with the beauty powerhouse to develop and market a line of fragrances for her fashion and accessories brand, L.A.M.B.

The first project, an as-yet-unnamed women's scent, is planned for fall 2007.

The announcement confirms a WWD report on Oct. 9.

Stefani, who emerged from Orange County, Calif., to become a very high-profile singer, is no one-note wonder. In addition to her music career — she has just released her second solo album, "The Sweet Escape," and continues to be a member of No Doubt — Stefani designs clothing for her L.A.M.B. brand and recently released her first L.A.M.B. handbag line. In three days in 20 Nordstrom doors, the bags have already reached a 37 percent sell-through rate, said Tim Schifter, chairman and chief executive officer of Schifter + Partners, which is producing the line with Stefani. The usual sell-through is 5 percent to 6 percent a week.

Stefani is also designing watches and sneakers and has appeared in several films, including "The Aviator" with Leonardo DiCaprio in 2004.

But Stefani has honest roots in the beauty industry. Before No Doubt hit it big, she worked as a salesperson in Plaza Sportswear at the Broadway in the Anaheim Plaza Mall, which Stefani admits basically consisted of selling polyester ensembles to older ladies, and longed to be in the cosmetics department. "My fantasy was to move over to the makeup counter, because those girls looked so perfect. I hated them — and I wanted to be hated," she said during an interview before Wednesday's press conference at the Hotel Gansevoort here.

Eventually, Stefani ended up selling Princess Marcella Borghese and Ultima II, although not to the audience their marketers intended. "Basically, transvestites would come in and want makeovers," she said, laughing.

While she didn't sell fragrances, she managed to score some anyway. "If you signed up enough credit cards, you'd get a tester bottle — half empty," she said. "I never thought in a million years, being in the stockroom with tons of bottles of Eternity, making sure I'd spray 10 sprays before I went home, that I'd have my own fragrance and my own bottles, lined up in my bathroom to waste."

Skindecent!

I recently ordered from Canadian e-tailer Skindecent. I've heard nothing but raves for her scrubs, and it is definitely prime scrubbing season. Despite a delay at the border, I got the box in about 3 weeks, and couldn't be more pleased. It was all packaged very nicely, NO leakage and with a little bag of massage melts. The personalized card on top is lovely, too!

I got:
Sleek Shaving Mousse - blackberry bliss
doesn't smell like I expected, but it's still a great scent. I think I was expecting something frutier, and this is more complex. And the formula is great! Very soft.

Manicure in a Minute - Strawberry Fields
True strawberry scent! Is this supposed to be very dry? it makes sense, since you don't use it in the shower. It is quite similar in texture to the "One Minute Manicure" products in salons.

Body Buffer - Raspberry Lemonade
Okay, now THIS is to die for. It's literally making me thirsty. I like the whipped texture, too. Definitely doesn't leave an oily feel - it actually foams up when you use it. Seems like it will be nice and moisturizing, but not as much as the sheen appeal!

Sheen Appeal - Un Bois Vanille
Scent is absolutely true. It's my favorite, I should know! :P The formula kind of reminds me of the Primal Elements bath scrub - kind of whipped, mousse-like, and moisturizing. Just like it says! I'm glad I got the bigger size in both of these.

Body Polisher - Vanille Abricot
This smells really good, too. Maybe the scrub has a bit of scent (honey) as well. And the tube is super-convenient. This seems like what most scrubs try to be - not too oily, not too dry.

I bought the big sizes in almost everything, and now I'm glad I did. I'll definitely order again - but these big boys will last me quite a while!

DIY Cuticle and Nail Care

It's finally what I would call "bitter cold" here in the RVA, I've been thinking a lot about beauty treatments that verge on first aid. Things like lip balm, moisturizer, and cuticle cream are a must in cold weather if you don't want raw, red, and chapped skin. I happened across this recipe in the profile of a very enterprising Makeupalley member, carekate. There are several great recipes there, but this one really impressed me. I don't have all the ingredients just yet, but I will be collecting them and trying it out as soon as I can. The recipe itself looks like it would make several pots worth of cream, so why not whip up a batch and give it to your friends, family, and office-mates? Anyway, without further ado, here's:

Dr. Holland’s Mending and Rebuilding Treatment for Raggedy-*ss Nails and Cuticles

What you need:

-------------------------------------

• small, clean glass or plastic jar or pot;

• 1 tsp Shea butter - strengthens and restores flexibility to nails;

• 2 tsp Cocoa butter - softening properties to mend hard, ragged cuticles and restores flexibility to dry, brittle nails;

• 2 tsp Mango butter - strengthens and restores flexibility to nails;

• ½ tsp Bees Wax - helps gives balms solid form;

• ½ tsp Castor oil - extremely useful for dry, brittle nails;

• ½ tsp Olive oil (extra virgin or extra, extra virgin is best) - useful for dry, brittle nails;

• ½ tsp Borage oil - able to penetrate deep into skin and nail bed to draw moisture deep and promote healthy growth of nails and cuticules;

• ½ tsp Macademia nut oil - softens, helps nails and skin maintain water barrier functions; most closely mimics the skin’s own natural oils;

• ½ tsp Vitamin E oil;

• 1/4 tsp Grapeseed oil - extremely emollien, penetrates without greasy residue;

• 1/4 tsp Jojoba oil - able to penetrate deep into skin and nail bed without leaving any greasy residue;

• 1/4 tsp Avocado oil - softens, nourishes and helps restore natural moisture balance;

• 1/8 tsp Hydrolized keratin (available from www.thepersonalformulator.com) – this is one of the protein building blocks of which hair and nails is comprised;

• 1/8 tsp Hydrolized Wheat Protein (available from www.thepersonalformulator.com) – this is a “moisture magnet” that draws and retains moisture into the cuticles and nail plate to help reverse severe dryness;

• 3 drops Neem oil – note: this oil has a very strong/noticeable scent so be sure not to accidentally add too much to your formulation. If it happens, simply increase the amount of Lemon EO to help disguise the smell;

• 12 drops Lemon essential oil - known to strengthen brittle nails;

What you do:

--------------------------------

Place all ingredients in a microwave safe dish or container and nuke on medium heat for 10-15 seconds at a time until completely liquified. Stir mixture then quickly transfer the melted mixture into a clean plastic jar or pot then place in freezer to quick-freeze and set for approximately 30 minutes.


Note: if you prefer a “solid” cuticle treatment such as Burt’s Bees Lemon Cuticle Balm, add more of the “butter” and wax ingredients to make your treatment into a balm. If your balm is too “mushy” after solidifying, you may remelt the ingredients and just add a tiny bit more of each of the wax/butters and then re-freeze. Repeat until your balm attains the desired consistency.


If you prefer a liquid-y treatment that you would brush on, like Solar Oil, skip the solid butter/wax ingredients. If you decide on the liquid oil, you don’t need to melt the ingredients in the microwave: just pour all of the liquid ingredients together in a small, clean bottle and shake well to blend.


Also, if you do not have all of the ingredients listed above, use whichever oils and/or butters that you happen to have on hand. In a pinch, you can create a very simple yet effective nail/cuticle treatment by mixing equal parts olive oil and castor oil with 15 drops of lemon essential oil.

How to use it:

----------------------------------

Massage thoroughly into nails and surrounding cuticle areas 1-2 times daily. For severely damaged or stressed nails, massage nails as often as possible throughout day, but especially after washing or submerging hands in water.

Spring Sneak Peek - Essie Spring 2007 colors!

Oh, I KNEW it. After this summer/fall's obsession with black and vampy nail polishes, the pendulum is swinging all the way back to pastels. Essie is known for their sheers and pastels, though, so maybe it's not a widespread trend. Anyway, here's the deets:

Essie’s Spring ’07 Collection

It’s a mod, mod world! Flashback to fun, funky and feminine with Essie’s Spring ’07 Collection!

Essie has created six brand new and fabulous nail polish shades to coordinate with spring 2007 fashion and color trends. This season’s styles are a blast from the past - updated classics that include minis, bold graphic patterns, baby doll dresses and 60’s-style coats to name a few.

Bags, bangles, hats galore and slim sheaths will be everywhere. Fabrics will be mostly soft and flowing, often with polka dots or floral prints. Pencil skirts, sophisticated suits, boat-necks and ruffles will balance out off-the-shoulder tops, short-shorts and plunging necklines.

These retro fashions will range in color from subdued pastels to bold and bright and the ever-present black and white. Shades of pink, violet, tangerine, green and yellow will be seen, in addition to sky and electric blue, silver, purple and taupe-y gray plus chocolate, khaki and red. essie has the perfect accessories to go with your new wardrobe…

The Spring 2007 Collection includes:

* Cool-Lots – apricot with gold undertones
* Guchi Muchi Puchi – lovely lavender
* Jackie Oh My – glistening pearl
* Mini How High – subtly shimmery baby pink
* Mod Squad - electric pink
* Pinkadelic – pink rosebuds

Feelin’ groovy? Let the good times roll with Essie in Spring ’07! Available in salons and spas 2/1/07.

For more information please log on to:
www.essie.com

Jordana Color Xtend Eyeliner

I'm not great at pencil liner, but I know it's a staple for many makeup mavens. Jordana Color X-Tend (Extend?) liners get great reviews on makeupalley.com, and they recently got great press in Allure Magazine. The problem? They are not easy to find. But a source tells me that you can find them here, and for a damn good price, too. Just Pearly is great for highlighting the inner "V" of the eye, the cupid's bow, and anywhere else you can think of. Walgreens has a hit-or-miss selection of Jordana products as well, usually on the Cosmetics department register counter.

Flour City Bakery - soy tart goodness!

A good mail day for me! I just recieved a great-smelling box of tarts from Karley @ Flour City Bakery. I've been converted to them over the years, mainly because of their relative safety compared to candles (if you use an electric burner, no open flames to worry about), the low-commitment factor and ease of changing scents with your mood instead of laying out $10-$50 or more for a candle.

Karley started her business as a very small-scale operation making "Karley's Gourmet Skin Care" products for friends and family in 2000. She had two products and four scents! Since then, she's expanded to a very wide range of products for the home, bath, body, and even facial skincare. I'm very glad she's grown her business, because I was running quite low on tarts to keep my home and office smelling nice.

I asked for clean scents, and that's exactly what I got - three each of Lavender and Vanilla, Sunshine on the Clothesline, and Spring Clean. One thing you need to know about tarts - when you first open up a box, all the tarts are going to smell the same. It has happened to me every time I have gotten them mailed to me, so really let them air out for an hour or more before sniffing them! Also, tarts on cold-sniff can sometimes smell MUCH different than they do when they are in the warmer.

These tarts are soy, which is better for the environment (soy is a renewable resource and helps support farmers), as well as aesthetically nicer, because the soy seems to release from tart burners much easier.

Flour City's packaging was very nice - the cellophane bags were tied with a cute holiday-green ribbon, and labeled with a country-style picture of candles or other aromatic goodies. it was all wrapped in a bag that would have been ready to give as a gift, straight out of the box!

The tarts are thick, cupcake-style with cute scalloped edges. My favorite of the scents I got was Sunshine on the Clothesline - it has those great fresh notes, with a touch of citrus (maybe yuzu?). They weigh in at almost 2 ounces, which is about 2x the size of store-bought tarts. Her 6/$4.50 ends up being a great deal, and the scent list is extensive. But hurry - the store closes for the holidays December 13th.

Karley was also sweet to include several other items for me to try - notably, her Triple Blend Body Oil. I'm SO glad she did this, because it's finally starting to hint at getting cold here, and my skin does NOT like the cold. The scent strength is perfect - not too overpowering, but not wimpy. It contains sweet almond, avocado, and extra-virgin olive oil. I put some on after abusing my hands, scrubbing my bathtub this morning. It feels very moisturizing yet soaks in and isn't greasy. The scent also sticks around - I used it about an hour ago and can still smell the Steamed Almond Latte fragrance. I can't wait to use it all over in the shower as a special treat!